Italy, By Way of Britain

   

You can be forgiven if you think that most Americans have the view that Italian food is all pizza and spaghetti. It's not. In fact, there are so many variations of what's being cooked over there, no restaurant could possible serve it all! And that's where one woman from Great Britain takes on the task of trying to explain it. Vicki Bennison wrote the cookbook Pasta Grannies. She takes on Italy with a fresh eye for what's new and different and guides the kitchen chef through the various forms of authentic Italian cooking. She stopped by Tonia's Kitchen with a recipe for Lemon Pesto, which is a fresh, light offering from the island of Procida, just off the coast of Naples. Reflecting its seaside culture, Vicki told Tonia she uses lemon peel, lemon juice, a little sugar, almonds, parsley and basil to create this treat!

• 3.5 oz boxed spaghetti per person
• 3 large organic lemons, ideally from Procida
• 0.2 cup lemon juice (from about 2 lemons) 
• 0.4 oz flat-leaf parsley (or basil) 
• 0.2 oz mint 
• 1 garlic clove
• 1 pinch of salt
• 1 pinch of dried chilli flakes
• 0.2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1.8 oz Italian pine nuts (or walnuts)
• 3.5 oz Parmigiano Reggiano (or pecorino), grated

1. Start by peeling the lemons; you only want the skin. A great way to remove the pith from the peel is to use a filleting knife, which has a flexible blade. Anchor the peel pith side up with a finger, then with the other hand press and slither the knife horizontally under the pith (away from your fingers, please), leaving the zesty skin. Chop the rinds finely. Strain the lemon juice to remove pips.
2. Rough chop the parsley, mint and garlic and blitz all these together in a food processor with a pinch of salt, the chilli flakes and the oil until smooth.
3. Roughly chop the nuts, add them to the mix and blitz again until you have a rough pesto paste.
4. Add half the cheese and give it a quick zhuzh. Taste for acidity and, if needed, add tablespoons of water to adjust.
5. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the spaghetti for the time indicated on the packet. In the meantime take a large salad bowl and dollop in the pesto. Dilute with a ladle of hot pasta water to make it more of a sauce.
6. Drain your pasta, keeping some of the pasta water. Toss the pasta with the pesto, adding in the rest of the cheese and adding more hot pasta water if necessary so the sauce coats the spaghetti. Serve immediately. This should be on your regular recipe roster! 

The Key to a Great Grilled Chicken Wing

The common wisdom over chicken wings, at least when you grill them, is to bake them or boil them first. But that's not exactly right, says cookbook author Jess Larson. She stopped by Tonia's Kitchen to talk about her recipe for Grilled Lemon Parmesan chicken wings. Jess told Tonia the best way to handle grilled wings is to...keep them on the grill. Jess says what you do is to light the grill halfway, that is to make sure half the grill has an open flame, whereas the other half is allowed to warm radiantly. She places the wings on the indirect heat and lets them cook internally, then when they're cooked on the inside, put those wings on the open flame and let them get charred. And as for the sauce, coat those wings after they're cooked!

Season the chicken wings. Pat the chicken wings as dry as possible with paper towel, then coat them in a generous dusting of salt, garlic powder, and onion powder.

Prep the lemon parmesan garlic wing sauce by combining oil with lemon zest and juice, fresh garlic, grated parmesan, and a touch of honey for caramelized char. Tip! ⇢ Be sure to use a high smoke point vegetable oil that can stand up to the intense heat of a grill. I like grilling with avocado oil.

Zone 2: Finish the chicken wings over direct heat. Place the saucy wings back on the grill, positioning them directly over the flame. Cook until the wings develop beautiful crispy grill marks. Why? ⇢ The intense heat of the direct zone renders the skin, making it deliciously charred and crispy.

Italy, British Style

   

You can be forgiven if you think that most Americans have the view that Italian food is all pizza and spaghetti. It's not. In fact, there are so many variations of what's being cooked over there, no restaurant could possible serve it all! And that's where one woman from Great Britain takes on the task of trying to explain it. Vicki Bennison wrote the cookbook Pasta Grannies. She takes on Italy with a fresh eye for what's new and different and guides the kitchen chef through the various forms of authentic Italian cooking. She stopped by Tonia's Kitchen with a recipe for Lemon Pesto, which is a fresh, light offering from the island of Procida, just off the coast of Naples. Reflecting its seaside culture, Vicki told Tonia she uses lemon peel, lemon juice, a little sugar, almonds, parsley and basil to create this treat!

• 3.5 oz boxed spaghetti per person
• 3 large organic lemons, ideally from Procida
• 0.2 cup lemon juice (from about 2 lemons) 
• 0.4 oz flat-leaf parsley (or basil) 
• 0.2 oz mint 
• 1 garlic clove
• 1 pinch of salt
• 1 pinch of dried chilli flakes
• 0.2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1.8 oz Italian pine nuts (or walnuts)
• 3.5 oz Parmigiano Reggiano (or pecorino), grated

1. Start by peeling the lemons; you only want the skin. A great way to remove the pith from the peel is to use a filleting knife, which has a flexible blade. Anchor the peel pith side up with a finger, then with the other hand press and slither the knife horizontally under the pith (away from your fingers, please), leaving the zesty skin. Chop the rinds finely. Strain the lemon juice to remove pips.
2. Rough chop the parsley, mint and garlic and blitz all these together in a food processor with a pinch of salt, the chilli flakes and the oil until smooth.
3. Roughly chop the nuts, add them to the mix and blitz again until you have a rough pesto paste.
4. Add half the cheese and give it a quick zhuzh. Taste for acidity and, if needed, add tablespoons of water to adjust.
5. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the spaghetti for the time indicated on the packet. In the meantime take a large salad bowl and dollop in the pesto. Dilute with a ladle of hot pasta water to make it more of a sauce.
6. Drain your pasta, keeping some of the pasta water. Toss the pasta with the pesto, adding in the rest of the cheese and adding more hot pasta water if necessary so the sauce coats the spaghetti. Serve immediately. This should be on your regular recipe roster! 

Lemons On (In) a Roll!

  

You'll be on a roll, with this cake! Abby Dodge, who wrote the cookbook The Everyday Baker, stopped by Tonia's Kitchen to talk about My (her) Mom's Lemony Roll Cake. Now here's the scoop, at its core, this is a Lemon-filled sponge cake that has an incredible dessert flavor at home in either a fancy dinner party or a casual get-together. Abby told Tonia that when the cake is hot from the oven, you roll it up to give it the shape of the name.  Abby also says this cake is bursting with flavor, thanks to the goat cheese that's enhanced with the zing of fresh blueberries. That of course, is combined with the decadence of sugar and heavy cream for an amazing treat you'll be sure to enjoy many times over.

LEMON-POPPY SEED ROLL CAKE WITH WHIPPED STRAWBERRY MASCARPONE

Happy Spring everyone and remember that Everyday is a great day for baking!

Abby

Lemon-Poppy Seed Roll Cake with Whipped Strawberry Mascarpone

Makes 8 to 16 servings.

For the cake

Nonstick cooking spray or softened butter + flour, for preparing
the pan

1 cup (7 oz./198g) granulated sugar, divided

1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest

1 1/2 cups (6 oz./170g) cake flour

1 1/2 tsp. baking powder

1/2 tsp. table salt

4 large eggs, divided

1/2 cup (120 ml) neutral oil (safflower, canola or vegetable)

1/2 cup (120 ml) buttermilk

2 Tbs. freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tsp. poppy seeds

Confectioners’ sugar (sifted if lumpy), for dusting (about 1 cup/4 oz./113 g)

For the filling

1 quart (1 lb./454g) medium-sized, fresh strawberries, rinsed and dried

2/3 cup (4 5/8 oz./131g) granulated sugar

1 Tbs. freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream, chilled

3/4 cup (6 oz./170g) mascarpone

Pinch of table salt

Make the cake

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F (180°C /gas 4). Lightly grease the sides and bottoms of a 13x18x1-inch (33x46x2.5 cm) half sheet pan and line the bottom with parchment. Lightly grease and flour the parchment and lightly flour the sides of the pan.
2. Put 3/4 cup (5 1/4 oz./149g) of the sugar and the lemon zest in a blender or food process and pulse until the zest is finely chopped and the sugar is fragrant. Sift the cake flour into the bowl of stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment mixer (or in a large bowl using an electric handheld mixer fitted with wire beaters), add the lemon-sugar, baking powder and salt and whisk until blended. Add the egg yolks, oil, buttermilk and vanilla. Beat on medium-low speed until blended. Increase the speed to medium high and beat until lighter in color and thin enough to form a ribbon of batter in the bowl when the beater is lifted, 3 minutes. Add the poppy seeds and mix briefly until blended.
3. Put the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large bowl using an electric handheld mixer fitted with wire beaters) and beat on medium-low speed until foamy. Increasing speed to medium, and beat until whites are opaque and climbing about half way up the bowl (the tracks from the whisk will be beginning to hold their shape) forming very soft peaks. Continue beating while slowly adding the remaining 1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz./50g) granulated sugar. Beat until the whites are thick, shiny and form medium peaks. (The peaks should droop over gently.) Do not over beat or the whites won’t expand during baking and the batter won’t rise as high.
4. Scrape about a quarter of the whites into the flour mixture and, using a large silicone spatula, gently stir until blended. The batter will become lighter and make it easier to fold in the remaining whites. Add the remaining whites and gently fold until just blended with no visible streaks of either the whites or batter. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and, using an offset spatula, gently spread into an even layer. Bake until the cake is pale golden brown and the top springs back when lightly touched, 13 to 15 minutes.
5. While the cake is baking, have ready two long strips of paper towels (two large squares per strip), the confectioners’ sugar for dusting, a fine- mesh sieve, and two large racks.
6. Move the pan to a rack and run the tip of a small knife around the edges to loosen the cake from the pan. Let cool 10 minutes. Sift the confectioners’ sugar over the cake in a generous layer. Cover the top of the cake completely with the strips of paper towels and cover with a rack large enough to overhang the edges of the pan. Gripping both racks with towels and with the sheet pan sandwiched in between, flip the pan and racks to invert. Lift the pan from the cake and carefully peel away the parchment.
7. Beginning on one short (or, to serve 16, long) side, roll up the cake and paper towel layer together. Do this while the cake is still war or it will crack. Arrange, seam side down (the seam will not be directly under the cake but just to the side facing down), on the rack and let cool completely.

Make the filling and assemble

1. Hull the strawberries and cut each in half then each half in half or quarters, if large. You should have about 4 cups of chopped strawberries. Scrape about half of the berries into medium saucepan and the sugar and lemon juice. Bring to a boil over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar is dissolved then reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring often, until the berries have released their juice and burst when lightly pressed with the spatula, about 6 minutes. Add the remaining berries and cook, stirring, until the syrup is thick and jam-like (you will have about 1 1/2 cups), 6 to 8 minutes. Slide the pan off the heat, let cool completely and refrigerate until chilled. For faster cooling, Scrape into a bowl and set the bowl over a larger bowl filled with ice and a little water, stirring and scraping the sides frequently.
2. Put the mascarpone, heavy cream and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large bowl using an electric handheld mixer fitted with wire beaters) and beat on medium-low speed until blended and smooth, about 1 minute. Increase to medium-high speed and beat until thick enough
to hold firm peaks when the beater is lifted, about 2 minutes. Add the cooled strawberry mixture and, using a silicone spatula, fold until just blended.
3. Carefully unroll the cake and remove the paper towels. It will look a bit wavy, uneven and will be curled at one end. Scrape the filling onto the cake and, using an offset spatula, spread evenly over the cake to within 1/2 inch of one of the short sides, the two long edges and to 1 inch of the remaining short (or long) side. Beginning with the shorter side with the filling almost to the edge, gently roll the cake without the paper towels. Using a long metal spatula, place the cake, seam side down (the seam will not be directly under the cake but just to the side facing down), on a flat serving plate or board. Refrigerate for 2 hours then cover loosely and continue chill for another 2 hours or up to 12 hours before serving.
4. About 30 minutes before serving, remove the cake from the refrigerator. Dust the top of the roll with additional confectioners’ sugar, if desired. Using a serrated knife, cut the cake on alternate angles into wedges about 2 inches thick at the widest end and serve with additional fresh strawberries, if desired.

A Mother's Day Dessert Idea

   

...and it's pretty sweet, just like mom. We're talking about homemade Lemon Curd.  Food Editor Mark Hagen with Taste of Home stopped by Tonia's Kitchen to talk about making it for Mother's Day and more. He says it's so easy to make, not only will you whip up a batch for the holiday, you'll be making it all summer long!

3 large eggs 

1 cup sugar 

1/2 cup lemon juice (about 2 lemons) 

1/4 cup butter cubed

1 Tbsp. grated lemon peel

In a small heavy saucepan over medium heat, whisk eggs, sugar and lemon juice until blended. Add butter and lemon peel; cook, whisking constantly, until mixture is thickened and coats the back of a metal spoon. Transfer to a small bowl; cool 10 minutes. Refrigerate, covered, until cold. 

*Test Kitchen tips: • Don’t use aluminum or unlined copper pans or spoons when making curd. They could react with the acid in the lemons, discoloring the curd and leaving  a metallic aftertaste. • To know when the curd is ready, coat the back of a spoon and run your finger through it; if it leaves a path, the curd is ready. It will thicken slightly as it cools.

A Lemon of a Dessert

  

And we don't mean that in a bad way! This one's a light, creamy dessert that doesn't require an oven. Abbie Dodge, who wrote the cookbook The Everyday Baker, came by Tonia's Kitchen to talk about her no-bake Lemon-Ginger Mousse Souffle. It uses a gelatin base, and ricotta cheese, both of which help keep it deliciously light! Try it out and have fun.

For the mousse:

• 3⁄4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1 envelope unflavored powdered gelatin
• 1 1⁄4 cups ricotta (part skim is fine)
• 3⁄4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
• 2 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger
• Pinch of table salt 4 whites from large eggs at room temperature
• 1⁄2 tsp. cream of tartar
• 1⁄2 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted if lumpy
• 12 gingersnap cookies + more for the crushed cookie topping (I use Nabisco or homemade molasses cookies)

MAKE AHEAD

The soufflés can be prepared, covered, and refrigerated for up to 2 days before serving. Have ready six 6-oz. ramekins arranged on a flat plate or quarter sheet pan. Cut parchment into six strips 2.5 inches wide and 12 inches long. Wrap one strip around each ramekin so that the paper covers the ramekin and stands 1 inch above the rim; secure with tape. Lightly grease the inside of the paper rim (I use a paper towel dipped in a bit of neutral oil).

Instructions

Make the mousse

1. Pour the lemon juice into a small heatproof ramekin (or keep it in the measuring cup) and sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the top. Set aside to soften. Once the gelatin has absorbed the liquid and is plump (about 3 minutes), microwave briefly until it is completely melted and crystal clear, 1 to 2 minutes. This can also be done in a small saucepan (instead of the ramekin) over low heat.
2. Put the ricotta, granulated sugar, lemon zest, ginger, and salt in a blender. Scrape the lemon gelatin mixture into the blender, cover, and process until the ricotta is smooth and the mixture is well blended, about 1.5 minutes, scraping down the sides once or twice. Pour into a medium bowl and refrigerate, stirring frequently, until the mixture is cooled and thickened, 20 to 30 minutes. It should be as thick as unbeaten egg whites. For faster cooling, set the bowl over a larger bowl filled with ice, stirring and scraping the sides frequently until cooled.
3. Put the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a medium bowl and using an electric handheld mixer fitted with wire beaters) and beat on medium speed until the whites are frothy, 30 to 45 seconds. Increase the speed to medium high and beat until the whites form soft peaks, 1 to 2 minutes. Continue beating while gradually adding the confectioners’ sugar, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Beat until the whites form firm and glossy peaks when the beater is lifted.
4. Scoop about one-quarter of the whites into the thickened lemon mixture and, using a silicone spatula, gently stir until blended. Add the remaining whites and gently fold in until just blended.

Assemble the mousses

1. Arrange one cookie in the bottom of each ramekin.
2. Using a large spoon, fill the ramekins halfway with the mousse.
3. Arrange a cookie on top of the mousse and evenly portion the remaining mousse on top of the cookies. Using a small offset spatula, smooth the tops.
4. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, at least 6 hours or up to 1 day.

To serve

Using a sharp paring knife, carefully peel away the parchment from the ramekins (up to 3 hours ahead). Just before serving, place each ramekin on a small plate and top with some of the crushed ginger cookie or a little of the blackberry compote, passing the remainder at the table.

Blackberry Compote

Ingredients

• 2 cups blackberries, rinsed and well dried
• 2 to 3 Tbs. limoncello liqueur
• 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

Instructions

1. Put the blackberries, limoncello, sugar, and lemon zest in a medium bowl.
2. Toss with a silicone spatula, lightly crushing the berries to release some of their juices.
3. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use or for up to 6 hours.

No Baking Allowed Here

  

And we don't mean that in a bad way! This one's a light, creamy dessert that doesn't require an oven. Abbie Dodge, who wrote the cookbook The Everyday Baker, came by Tonia's Kitchen to talk about her no-bake Lemon-Ginger Mousse Souffle. It uses a gelatin base, and ricotta cheese, both of which help keep it deliciously light! Try it out and have fun.

For the mousse:

• 3⁄4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1 envelope unflavored powdered gelatin
• 1 1⁄4 cups ricotta (part skim is fine)
• 3⁄4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
• 2 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger
• Pinch of table salt 4 whites from large eggs at room temperature
• 1⁄2 tsp. cream of tartar
• 1⁄2 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted if lumpy
• 12 gingersnap cookies + more for the crushed cookie topping (I use Nabisco or homemade molasses cookies)

MAKE AHEAD

The soufflés can be prepared, covered, and refrigerated for up to 2 days before serving. Have ready six 6-oz. ramekins arranged on a flat plate or quarter sheet pan. Cut parchment into six strips 2.5 inches wide and 12 inches long. Wrap one strip around each ramekin so that the paper covers the ramekin and stands 1 inch above the rim; secure with tape. Lightly grease the inside of the paper rim (I use a paper towel dipped in a bit of neutral oil).

Instructions

Make the mousse

1. Pour the lemon juice into a small heatproof ramekin (or keep it in the measuring cup) and sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the top. Set aside to soften. Once the gelatin has absorbed the liquid and is plump (about 3 minutes), microwave briefly until it is completely melted and crystal clear, 1 to 2 minutes. This can also be done in a small saucepan (instead of the ramekin) over low heat.
2. Put the ricotta, granulated sugar, lemon zest, ginger, and salt in a blender. Scrape the lemon gelatin mixture into the blender, cover, and process until the ricotta is smooth and the mixture is well blended, about 1.5 minutes, scraping down the sides once or twice. Pour into a medium bowl and refrigerate, stirring frequently, until the mixture is cooled and thickened, 20 to 30 minutes. It should be as thick as unbeaten egg whites. For faster cooling, set the bowl over a larger bowl filled with ice, stirring and scraping the sides frequently until cooled.
3. Put the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a medium bowl and using an electric handheld mixer fitted with wire beaters) and beat on medium speed until the whites are frothy, 30 to 45 seconds. Increase the speed to medium high and beat until the whites form soft peaks, 1 to 2 minutes. Continue beating while gradually adding the confectioners’ sugar, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Beat until the whites form firm and glossy peaks when the beater is lifted.
4. Scoop about one-quarter of the whites into the thickened lemon mixture and, using a silicone spatula, gently stir until blended. Add the remaining whites and gently fold in until just blended.

Assemble the mousses

1. Arrange one cookie in the bottom of each ramekin.
2. Using a large spoon, fill the ramekins halfway with the mousse.
3. Arrange a cookie on top of the mousse and evenly portion the remaining mousse on top of the cookies. Using a small offset spatula, smooth the tops.
4. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, at least 6 hours or up to 1 day.

To serve

Using a sharp paring knife, carefully peel away the parchment from the ramekins (up to 3 hours ahead). Just before serving, place each ramekin on a small plate and top with some of the crushed ginger cookie or a little of the blackberry compote, passing the remainder at the table.

Blackberry Compote

Ingredients

• 2 cups blackberries, rinsed and well dried
• 2 to 3 Tbs. limoncello liqueur
• 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
• 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

Instructions

1. Put the blackberries, limoncello, sugar, and lemon zest in a medium bowl.
2. Toss with a silicone spatula, lightly crushing the berries to release some of their juices.
3. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use or for up to 6 hours.