Christmas Cookie Week: An Apple Cookie, Without the Apples

 

Lots to unpack here with Chris Taylor and Paul Arguin. They're the authors behind the new cookbook Fabulous Modern Cookies. Both writers stopped by Tonia's Kitchen to talk about just how they're shaking up the cookie recipe world, with some new and different takes on classic recipes. This time around, they're going back a ways to an oldie...it's called a Moxie Cookie and it's made with the Ritz Crackers and Cream of Tartar. Two things you certainly would not expect in a cookie recipe. The chefs told Tonia that Cream of Tartar offers a green apple-esque flavor profile when you follow the recipe, with the crackers it turns into a crispy and chewy cookie that might just surprise you!

40 crackers (133 grams) of Ritz biscuits

½ cup (71 grams) pecan nuts, toasted and cooled (see note)

½ cup (100 g) packed light brown sugar

teaspoon cream of tartar

Half a teaspoon of ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 large egg white (35 g)

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

4 tablespoons (57 g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled but still biodegradable

1. Place two racks to divide the oven into thirds and heat to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Drain bread measuring 18 x 13 inches

Sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.

2. Place the biscuits in the bowl of a food processor and blend until they turn into small crumbs. Transfer the crumbs to a bowl. Add the pecans to a food processor and grind them well as well. Add the ground nuts to the bowl with the biscuit crumbs. (Alternatively, the crackers can be crushed by hand directly into the bowl and the pecans can be chopped by hand.)

3. Add the brown sugar, cream of tartar, cinnamon, and nutmeg to the bowl. Mix these dry ingredients together by hand using a silicone spatula. Add the egg whites, lemon juice and melted butter and mix until all the dry ingredients are moistened and the mixture is formed into a cohesive mass. Let the mixture rest for 15 minutes before washing it off.

4. Portion 1 tablespoon (18 grams) of dough, using a #60 ladle, roll into balls, and arrange 13 servings evenly on first baking sheet. Flatten the balls a little with your fingertips. Repeat the process with the rest of the dough and arrange it on the second baking tray.

5. Bake until the edges of the cookies are firm and beginning to turn brown, 13 to 17 minutes. Halfway through the baking process, rotate the pans front to back and top to bottom. Remove from the oven and let cool for 5 minutes on a baking sheet before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. After cooling, cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for several days.

Christmas Cookie Week: Pumpkin Cookies

 

Yes, it's that time of year again. Tonia's Kitchen is proud to walk down Christmas Cookie Lane in the runup to the big holiday. And this year, we have something extra special for you to try in your oven. They're called Pumpkin Snicker Cringles, kind of like a gingerbread with the warm winter spices that you might associate with the holiday, but with a different flavor profile involving pumpkin. The trick here, says Fabulous Modern Cookies co-authors Chris Taylor and Paul Arguin, is to make the sure the pumpkin doesn't turn the cookie you're making into more of a cake. Pumpkin, and other wet ingredients tend to do that. That's where their innovations come in. They studied something called Tangzhong Technique. It's a Japanese baking method by which you can trap the moisture of a wet ingredient, and allow the flavor to be more chewy, like a cookie, instead of soft like a cake.  It's a great Christmas Cookie!

Ingredients (makes about 3 dozen cookies):

• 2 1/4 cups flour, divided
• 1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 1/2 cups dark brown sugar, packed
• 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
• 2/3 cup pumpkin puree (not pie filling)
• 3 large egg yolks, at room temperature
• 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together 2 cups flour, the baking soda, and salt.  Set aside.

Add your butter to a small saucepan over medium heat. Let melt and continue to heat undisturbed until it begins bubbling.

Once the bubbling begins to quiet down, start swirling the pan constantly for about 1 minute, or until you start seeing the solids at the bottom of the pan turning golden brown and the butter has a nutty aroma (this can go from seeing nothing to being quite golden brown in a matter of seconds, just as a heads up.)

Remove the pan from heat and stir in the brown sugar along with 2 teaspoons of cinnamon, scraping at the bottom of the pan to fully incorporate all of the browned bits.

Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

In a separate small, microwave-safe bowl, stir together the remaining 1/4 cup flour and the pumpkin puree.

Add the mixture to your microwave and heat in 30 second increments, stirring in between each one, until the mixture has thickened into a paste (about 2 minutes total). This is called the Tangzhong Technique

Add the pumpkin mixture to the large bowl with the brown sugar mixture.

Using an electric mixer, beat the mixtures together on medium speed to fully combine. Let set for 15 minutes, or until fully cool.

Once cool, mix in the egg yolks and the vanilla extract on medium speed.

Reduce the speed to low and mix in your flour mixture a little at a time, being sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl from time to time to make sure everything is fully combined.

In a separate small, shallow bowl, whisk together the remaining teaspoon and cinnamon and the confectioners’ sugar.

Use a cookie scoop to portion out a ball of the dough and drop it into the cinnamon-sugar mixture.

Gently roll the ball around to completely coat and then place on your baking sheet.

Repeat, adding the coated dough two inches apart on your baking sheet.

Add to your oven and bake until the cookies are puffy and the tops are cracked, about 11 to 15 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through. Let cool for 10 minutes on the baking sheets then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

Repeat with your remaining dough and cinnamon-sugar mixture. You can store the cookies in an airtight container at room temperature for several days.

The Side Has Holidays Written All Over It!

 

This side dish just screams holiday dinner. It's good old-fashioned Potatoes AuGratin. New York Times Food Columnist Melissa Clark stopped by Tonia's Kitchen to talk about this rich, decadent side dish that goes really well the roast pork we talked about earlier in the week. In fact, Melissa says they can even go in the oven together. These dishes can be made ahead or the day of the Christmas feast. It oozes flavor, and love for your guests. Love, because your guests will love it too! 

3 to 4 pounds potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch slices

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Kosher salt and black pepper

2 to 3 cups half-and-half or heavy cream

¼ cup grated Parmesan or Gruyère

Pinch of nutmeg (optional)

1. Step 1

   Heat oven to 400 degrees. Seasoning each layer with salt and pepper as you go, layer the potatoes in a 10- or 12-inch ovenproof skillet.

2. Step 2

   Dot the top with 2 tablespoons butter. Pour in half-and-half. (It should come about ¾ of the way to the top.)

3. Step 3

   Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce to low and cook for 10 minutes, uncovered, until the half-and-half has reduced by about half.

4. Step 4

   Transfer to the oven and bake until the top is golden brown, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 300 degrees and cook until the potatoes are fork tender and the top is nicely browned, about 8 minutes more. Top with grated cheese and return to the oven until the cheese is melty and golden brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle with a pinch of nutmeg, if using, and serve.

The Holiday Party is Back!

 

Yes, it's true...traditional holiday gatherings that many of us are just now returning to after years of not being able to hold parties like the ones we've had in the past. But with this return comes new challenges, some of them in the form of challenges to our financial well-being. We want to celebrate, but we also want to save money. New York Times Food Columnist Melissa Clark came by

Tonia's Kitchen to talk about a festive idea that will keep your budget from busting...a delicious slow-roasted pork shoulder standing in for your traditional beef roast. Melissa told Tonia she roasts the pork until the fat bakes right off. She uses a ton of garlic in the recipe, and that allows for a crispy skin and juicy meat!

Yield: 8 to 12 servings

• 1(7- to 8-pound) bone-in, skin-on pork shoulder roast, or a 6- to 7-pound boneless roast, fat trimmed to ¼-inch thickness
• ¼cup chopped fennel fronds
• ¼cup chopped fresh rosemary
• 2teaspoons chopped fresh sage leaves
• 5garlic cloves, grated or mashed to a paste
• Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
• 1½tablespoons kosher salt
• 1teaspoon fennel seed
• ¾teaspoon red pepper flakes
• ½teaspoon black pepper
• ¼cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. Step 1

   Score skin and fat all over pork, taking care not to cut down to the meat.

2. Step 2

   In a food processor or mortar and pestle, combine fennel fronds, rosemary, sage, garlic, lemon zest, salt, fennel seed, red pepper flakes and black pepper. Pour in oil. Pulse or mash until it forms a paste. Rub all over pork. If using a boneless roast, tie with kitchen string at 2-inch intervals. Transfer to a large bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 6 hours and preferably overnight.

3. Step 3

   Remove pork from refrigerator 1 to 2 hours before you want to cook it. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Transfer pork to a rimmed baking sheet and roast 35 minutes. Reduce temperature to 325 degrees and cook an additional 2 hours 45 minutes to 4 hours, until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reads 180 degrees, which will give you sliceable, tender meat. (Bone-in roasts will take longer than boneless ones.)

4. Step 4

   Transfer pork to a cutting board and let rest 15 to 30 minutes before serving. Make sure everyone gets some of the cracklings.

You Can't "Beet" This Baba Gnoush!

That's because there's a lot of beetroot in it! Micah Siva, who wrote the new cookbook Nosh! stopped by Tonia's Kitchen to talk about her recipe, and how delicious it is. Micah told Tonia the baba gnoush recipes calls for charred eggplant, paprika and vegan mayonnaise. She says it's very easy to make and offers a fantastic party dip for those upcoming holiday get-togethers.